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photo of Immaculate Conception of Mary Cathedral Church

Exploring Granada, Nicaragua as a Female Traveler

Colonial Architecture, History, and Personal Empowerment

Author: Jamie Milam

Date: September 16, 2024

After sending my son off to college, I knew a mental reset was exactly what I needed. Y'all, getting your kid ready for college - from campus tours to applications to move in - is like a part-time job that continues to add to that mental full plate of things to do. It was suggested I book a short getaway to refill my cup after the emotional whirlwind of stepping into an empty nest. After all, I'm in my post-divorce travel era and now as an empty-nester, I'm afforded a lot more flexibility in my calendar to do so! Naturally, the beach seemed like the obvious choice—it’s my sanctuary, the place where I can let go and quiet my mind. But this time, I wanted to add an extra element of historic exploration. I wanted to visit somewhere completely foreign to me, so here was my criteria:

Somewhere safe
With a small walkable town that had character and, preferably, with history and architecture
A beach that wasn't full of tourists, that wouldn't have a lot to do - forcing that relaxation time
Preferably with clear water

So where would I be going? Nicaragua. And yes, I'm sure you gave the same look every other person gave when I said that. The itinerary that checked all the boxes included a one night stay in Granada first, then take a hopper plane over to Big Corn Island.

Architectural Wonders: Exploring Granada's Colonial-Era Streets

Granada is located along the coast of Lake Nicaragua and is about a forty-five minute drive from where you fly into, Managua, the country's capital. While Granada is the country's sixth largest city and does greatly rely on tourism, it was attractive to me because it's known for maintaining some of the finest colonial-era architecture in the country. And luckily for me, there was even less tourists there than I had anticipated, allowing me to explore comfortably without crowds.

There’s a certain magic I find in wandering through the streets of a city where history lives in every brick and stone. As I walk, I’m instantly captivated by the intricate carvings, towering spires, and the weight of time pressed into every building - each one a masterpiece, brimming with character, some worn by time with that perfect patina, while others stand proudly, refreshed and meticulously maintained. I am especially drawn archways and door fronts that hold their own unique story - often hand carved, adorned with trimmings, or even proudly presenting with classic simplicity. It’s as though each structure whispers stories of generations past—of hands that shaped them, of lives lived within them, of cultures long gone but still present in the air. The craftsmanship is awe-inspiring, unlike anything we often see in the U.S. Here, the artistry and attention to detail feel almost sacred, as if the buildings themselves are works of art meant to be admired for centuries.

In these moments, standing in the shadow of such beauty, I feel a sense of wonder and wanderlust stirring deep within me—an insatiable curiosity to uncover more, to lose myself in the streets and find stories in the walls. And it’s here, surrounded by the weight of history, that the pressures of life begin to dissipate. The sorrows I’ve carried seem small, insignificant against the backdrop of this vast, enduring world. With every step, my worries fade, replaced by the thrill of discovery and the reminder that there’s so much more to life than the burdens I bring with me. It's this feeling that fuels me in this new chapter of my life.

A Night at Hotel Plaza Colon: Luxury and History Combined

Since I was only staying one night in this historic city, I wanted a central location and with the cost of living much lower in Nicaragua, I decided to splurge on one of their higher end accommodations, Hotel Plaza Colón. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint. The boutique hotel had actually been home to many prominent families over the centuries, the last of which converted it into a hotel, but took measures to ensure it would keep its architectural history and still boasts the same facade it did in the 19th century. I booked a balcony room, which faces the main plaza with a view of the Immaculate Conception of Mary Cathedral Church. Stunning. The hotel's carefully maintained mahogany and oak structure against the beautiful Spanish tile really highlighted its history.

By day, the balcony offered a front-row seat to the lively energy of the plaza below, where merchants busily set up their stalls and locals mingled in a swirl of colors and sounds. But as the sun dipped and an evening storm rolled in, the scene transformed. Between the low rumbles of distant thunder, I could hear the soft, playful notes of a nearby flute drifting up from the street. The sound of hands clapping in unison occasionally broke through, likely from a small crowd gathered nearby, their joy standing in contrast to the storm's rumbling approach. It was a mesmerizing blend of nature’s power and human celebration.

I was immediately wrapped in the unexpected comfort of this boutique hotel, where every detail seemed to be crafted for relaxation. The pillows were the perfect balance of soft and firm, cradling my head just right, while the bed itself felt like a cloud I could sink into after a long day. The towels? Thick and indulgently plush, like they’d just been freshly spun. And then, there was the body wash—a truly divine blend of cucumber, coconut, rose petals, and aloe vera. The scent filled the air with a calming, fresh aroma, and I found myself lingering in the shower just to enjoy it a little longer. I even asked if I could ship some home, but as it turns out, this gem of a product is made exclusively for the hotel by a Nicaraguan company that crafts 100% organic, sustainable products. That discovery made me fall even deeper for this place, knowing they prioritize sustainability with such care and attention to detail. It’s the kind of thoughtful luxury that leaves you swooning long after you’ve checked out.

Immersing Yourself in the Culture

Being closer to the equator, the heat in Granada, Nicaragua, is something entirely different from what I’m used to back in the Carolinas. At home, the high humidity levels cling to your skin, making the air feel thick and sticky, however I don't find myself immediately sweating. But in Granada, even though the temperatures hovered in the high 80s with lower humidity levels, it definitely felt more like 97 to 102. You’ll feel the sweat gathering before you know it, beads forming on your brow as the sun presses down, unyielding. Thank goodness for the cool breaks the hotel room's AC offered! Don't make the mistake of thinking those mid-80s sound manageable—this kind of heat catches up with you fast, especially as you’re wandering the vibrant streets. But there's something oddly captivating about how even the climate itself can fuel the wanderlust, making you acutely aware that you're stepping into something unfamiliar. The heat, the air, everything feels different, pulling you deeper into the essence of this new place.

Banana Burger at Tostro Metro in Granada

Banana Burger at Tostro Metro. Photo credit: Jamie Milam

After winding my way through the nearby market, I noticed a building peeking in between merchants that truly fell right into my color palette and boasted a weathered facade that still held beauty in its aged state. The color held a certain softness, a muted green that still carried whispers of its former vibrancy, now gently dulled by time, like the patina of something well-loved and rich in history, which I would later learn was the old Central Market Building and still wish I had been able to explore its inner walls more. Its outer rooms now serve as merchant stalls and it was there, tucked back almost invisibly, I found a lunch spot, called Tosto Metro. Once sitting in the small space that was only lit by the sun shining through the entry way, I heard the sounds of what I'd describe as a blend of house and trance EDM music - as if the Universe lined this spot up just for my soul to enjoy that day. Their menu is small, but their style is mighty. They feature a Banana Burger, where fried plantains serve as the bun. It was unique, yet delicious. The avocado and pumpkin dressings they offered were more than five star worthy and so unexpected! A meal for two was under $20USD. Highly recommend.

My stay in Granada was short, with my agenda mostly consisting of wandering the streets. From the Las Mercedes Cathedral ($1 USD to climb the bell tower) to checking out a local supermarket for a bottle of water (also only $1 USD) and strolling the lakefront of Lake Cocibolca, I was able to capture numerous photos and observe the locals in all of their different elements. While the historic district consists of retail spaces, you can also find some colonial homes and cottages in the area. I love the attached colonials that are colorfully painted or boast that classic Spanish exterior with a colorful door. But don't be caught off guard if you venture farther away from the city center and begin to see more of the areas that showcase the well-known poverty levels of this country. Streets filled with make-shift houses, made of boards, tin and stucco that may have dirt floors. As a woman, I understand how it could feel uncomfortable if this is something you've never witnessed, but I never experienced anything there that made me feel as though I was in a dangerous situation. I do recommend that if you plan to venture away from the main city areas, do so in clothing that is comfortable for the heat and isn't your most Instagram-worthy selection so you'll blend in a bit more. Remember, the city relies heavily on tourism, so it's not like they're not used to tourists in the area. Remain respectful of them in their environments and they'll tend to do the same.

Dinner & drinks at the Garden Cafe. Photo credit: Jamie Milam

Be willing to expose yourself to other cultures and you'll find kids playing on a baseball field or families cooking on their lawn, just as you would at home. It’s this kind of exposure that can open your eyes to new perspectives, fostering a deep sense of gratitude for your own life and the experiences that have shaped you.

Embrace Your New Season of Opportunities

This new chapter of life—whether it follows a major transition like divorce, becoming an empty nester or simply a season of change—opens up a world of possibilities, and travel can be the perfect way to reconnect with yourself. It’s a time to embrace the freedom and flexibility that may not have existed before, and to recognize that the world is waiting for you to explore it. Traveling alone or with newfound independence isn’t just about seeing new places; it’s about rediscovering the parts of you that may have been tucked away, forgotten, or even lost. Every new destination has the power to reflect something new back to you, unveiling hidden strengths, passions, and pieces of your identity you didn’t even know were there.

As you step through the winding alleys, feel the cobblestones beneath your feet, and pause to admire the details of the architecture, take a moment to breathe it all in. You’re not just seeing a new place—you’re living fully in the moment, thriving in this new chapter. These moments of presence are more than just travel memories; they’re proof of your resilience and growth. Each step you take builds confidence in yourself—reminding you that you're not only surviving, but flourishing in a life that’s uniquely yours. So, allow yourself the joy of exploration. Let each destination, each experience, bring you closer to the woman you're becoming. This is your time.

To traveling and personal empowerment,

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About Me

I'm Jamie Milam, a determined AF woman who's embraced life after divorce by finding peace through self-awareness, intentional decision-making, and thrilling new travel adventures.

As a Realtor® in Charlotte, NC (and your connection to top agents nationwide), I’m passionate about guiding you through your homeownership and design goals—while also helping you create space for the things you love. My mission is to empower you to create a life of alignment too - at home, abroad, and within.

Whether it’s through real estate tips, home design inspiration, or solo travel experiences for divorced, independent women, I hope this space encourages you to discover deeper self-awareness and build a life that aligns with your passions and needs.

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Jamie Milam is a Realtor® in the Charlotte, NC area, licensed in both NC & SC, and has the ability to refer you to a number of agent partners across the nation, regardless of where you may live. She is an enthusiast for the power of awareness and believes it can be used in all facets of life to support aligned living.

**Disclosure** This post may contain affiliate links and they are at no additional cost to you, though I may earn a small commission. Don't worry, I only recommend products or services that I have tried or believe would be of great value to you! All opinions expressed are those of my own!